I AM A DERM AND THIS IS WHY I DON’T LIKE MICRONEEDLING
Microneedling has gained considerable popularity over time, hailed as a panacea for various skin concerns, notably acne scarring and the reversal of dermatological atrophy.
This cosmetic procedure entails the use of a device equipped with fine needles to create minuscule punctures in the skin. These micro-injuries prompt the body's innate healing mechanisms, fostering the production of collagen and elastin. These proteins play pivotal roles in enhancing the skin's youthful appearance and resilience.
As a dermatologist, I maintain some reservations regarding microneedling, albeit with nuanced considerations. The procedure can be executed in two primary ways: manually or with a specialised device such as Dermapen.
Skincare professionals select the appropriate microneedling device, adjusting the needle depth based on the client’s unique skin characteristics and treatment objectives. While the specifics of microneedling devices may vary, they commonly feature a pen-like instrument with fine needles designed to induce controlled micro-injuries in the skin- the part that concerns me.
When performed manually, the selection of an appropriate derma roller hinges on factors such as needle length and the patient's skin profile. Dermarollers with varying needle lengths cater to diverse treatment depths, with shorter needles typically addressing superficial concerns and longer needles penetrating deeper layers.
During the procedure, the skincare professional or practitioner rolls the derma roller across the skin in various directions, generating controlled micro-injuries and punctures.
My apprehensions about microneedling primarily revolve around its potential to exacerbate skin damage rather than repair it. The skin barrier, or epidermal barrier, constitutes the outermost layer of the skin, serving as a critical defense mechanism against external aggressors such as UV radiation and pollutants. Disruption of this barrier can lead to various issues, including dryness, sensitivity, and inflammation, necessitating intervention by someone who expertly understands skin, EG, a dermatologist.
In my clinical experience, many clients seeking treatment for conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea have undergone multiple sessions of microneedling. Regrettably, the procedure, when performed improperly, can inflict long-term inflammatory conditions due to its disruptive nature on the skin barrier.
If you’re seeking the results that microneedling yields, these are my alternate recommendations which I believe are superior in results and indisputably safer:
1. Acne scarring: Laser protocols such as Pico MLA, Moxie 1927, and Halo offer superior results with enhanced safety profiles compared to microneedling. These lasers not only address acne scarring effectively but also provide supplementary benefits such as skin rejuvenation and sun damage removal.
2. Sun damage and pigmentation: Moxie 1927 laser treatment offers a gentler alternative to microneedling, promoting skin regeneration and addressing pigmentation issues without the risk of rebound pigmentation.
3. Texture concerns: Combining laser treatments like Clear Silk and Moxie 1927 can effectively restore skin luminosity and texture by eliminating dead skin buildup and addressing background distortion caused by redness and sun damage.
4. AI microneedling: indeed a novel concept, has made its mark in the realm of dermatology. Embracing this cutting-edge technology, my clinic, ODE Dermatology, has integrated it into our practice. The standout feature of this innovation lies in its utilization of EXION Fractional RF, a groundbreaking microneedling RF technology that incorporates AI pulse control alongside monopolar radiofrequency.
What distinguishes EXION Fractional RF from conventional methods? It boasts a single-pass procedure capable of penetrating up to 8mm in depth without necessitating full needle insertion. This advancement ensures enhanced comfort during treatment and enables comprehensive addressing of various facial and bodily areas.
In conclusion, while microneedling may promise desirable outcomes, its execution often falls short due to inadequate understanding of the risks involved and insufficient practitioner expertise. Laser protocols and Exion, as recommended, offer superior results with commendable safety profiles, making them the preferred choice for individuals prioritising efficacy and safety in their skincare regimens in 2024.
Dr. Shammi Theesan, a distinguished Australian dermatologist renowned for her pioneering work, established ODE Dermatology in 2021. Her philosophy embodies the fusion of cutting-edge technology with unparalleled medical expertise, dedicated to achieving remarkable transformations in dermatology.
